Jewelry Metals

Gold

Because gold is a soft metal, it is often alloyed with other metals to prevent it from bending, scratching or breaking. Silver, copper, tin, nickel, platinum, palladium, and zinc all are commonly mixed with gold. Which metals are alloyed with the gold, determines the resulting hue. The purity of gold is divided into twenty-four parts where 24 Karat (24K) is pure. Since 24K is so soft, it is unusual to see it in jewelry. The most popular alloys in descending order of purity are 18K, 14K, and 10K. There are many color possibilities for gold alloys. The most popular are:
Yellow– The natural color of gold.
White – This is achieved by using alloys such as nickel, zinc and copper. It will need to be rhodium plated every few years to keep it looking white. Rhodium is what makes white gold white. Color changes can happen from months to years after purchasing a white gold piece. It will happen because the color of the gold is being modified from its natural color. If you have a nickel allergy, white gold may cause you to have a reaction and it would be better to wear platinum or yellow gold.
Rose – The presence of copper and silver create the pink-hued alloy.

Gold Plated

Gold-plated jewelry has only a thin layer of gold applied on top. Gold-plating may wear away so rings or bracelets should not be worn daily. A gold-plated piece is usually made of 10, 14, or 18 karat gold plating. Gold plated pieces aren’t always stamped. If it is stamped, it will be with the karat gold followed by GP on the piece, such as 14KGP. The gold will start to fade over time due to natural oils in the skin, dirt, soaps, and chemicals that it is exposed to.

Gold Filled

Gold-filled jewelry has an outer layer of gold laid over another metal. Gold filled jewelry is plated with real gold, but with a thicker layer of gold. The thick layer is comprised of many thin sheets of gold. Each sheet is wrapped around the piece of jewelry and bonded by heat. In order for gold pieces to be legally sold as gold filled pieces, the total weight of the gold must be 1/20th or 5% real gold. Gold filled jewelry is usually found in 10K, 14K, or 18K. A gold filled piece of jewelry made with sheets of 14K gold should be stamped 14KGF or 14GF. You may also see it as 1/20 14K GF, indicating the piece is made of 1/20th of 14 karat gold.

Vermeil

A layer of gold over silver and perhaps other precious metals. Vermeil usually refers to a covering of 10K or 14K gold over silver. In order for a gold plated piece to be legally sold as a vermeil piece, the gold content must be at least 10 karat and two microns thick.

Platinum

Platinum is a difficult metal to manipulate and refine. It can be shaped into thin and strong wires, so platinum is a white metal that can be formed into delicate and lacy designs. It never needs rhodium plating because that is its natural color.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver contains 92.5% of pure silver. The other remaining percentage is alloy, which is a mixture of metals to increase its durability. It’s not recommended for larger diamond jewelry because it is not very strong and the diamonds could be lost. It is not considered hypoallergenic. Sterling silver does tarnish, but it may be plated for this reason. Sterling silver is required by law to be stamped on all fine jewelry as 925 pure silver content.

Stainless Steel

Most people with metal allergies are allergic to nickel or copper but there are other alloys that cause allergies. Stainless steel is hypoallergenic. Doctor tools are made out of surgical stainless steel. It is a metal alloy of iron that contains 12.8% chromium content. Chromium is the element that keeps stainless steel from rusting. Stainless steel jewelry might be stamped as SS. You can’t resize the metal, so it may not be a good choice for rings. It is strong metal and less costly, so it is an option for chains.

You shouldn’t wear any jewelry in the shower or while swimming. Also, do not store sterling silver jewelry in the bathroom where there is steam and condensation.